Allow or prohibit the use of Mriya flowers in the formulations of national cosmetics

It is proposed to initiate processes aimed at allowing the use of leaves and inflorescences of technical hemp of a therapeutic orientation as one of the ingredients of cosmetics obtained by a method that excludes extraction.

The pages of the profile electronic publication of Ukrainian hemp breeders have repeatedly described the mechanisms by which international pharmaceutical companies try to monopolize the market for various hemp components that have a significant therapeutic effect through various restrictions on the use of plant leaves and inflorescences in food , cosmetics , biologically active or fodder additives. Another manifestation of this kind was the decision of the EU Working Group on Cosmetic Productsaimed at establishing administrative barriers to the use of natural cannabinoids, terpenes, terpenoids, finols, flavonoids in the formulation of cosmetic products of countries that are part of the European Union .

Let's look at what substances and ingredients of “hemp origin” are approved for use in cosmetic products in EU Member States . A list of the above substances is contained in the Cosmetic ingredient database (Cosing). 

Substances that can be used in cosmetic products :

•  cannabidiol (CBD), used in cosmetics if it has a synthetic origin that does not come from hemp extracts or resins;

• hemp seed oil (has emollient and protective properties for the skin);

• hemp seed extracts (used as emollients);

•  powdery stems.

Parts and derivatives of hemp that cannot be used in cosmetics :

•  cannabidiol of natural origin;

•  essential oils derived from hemp;

•  all extracts or resins of inflorescences, leaves or buds of a plant.

Obviously, tetrahydrocannabinol is prohibited for use in cosmetics . In addition, essential oils, as well as any other substances of natural origin extracted from the plant, should not be used in the formulation of cosmetic preparations . 

At the same time, terpenes can be used to prepare cosmetic formulations , since they are botanically present not only in hemp, but also in many other plants as the main components of their resins, as well as their essential oils (for example, in hops, citrus fruits , etc.). Therefore, terpenes can be obtained by extracting from plants other than hemp, avoiding the risk of using other substances contained in the plant and unsuitable for use in cosmetics .

Commentary of the Ukrainian Technical Hemp Association

Unlike China , the USA , Canada , and other economically developed countries of the world, the EU issues directives that are clearly aimed at lobbying the interests of international pharmaceutical companies, establishing various kinds of administrative barriers for any products containing the natural components of hemp leaves and inflorescences. One element of the above policy is the solution proposed several months ago by the Working Party on Cosmetic Products ( EU ). The recent changes in Cosing, which is not a legally binding document, confirms the negative trend aimed at establishing unnecessary administrative barriers to the use of natural cannabinoids, terpenes, terpenoids, finols, flavanoids in the formulation of cosmetic preparations . That is why the European Association of Industrial Hemp (European Industrial Hemp Association, EIHA) initiates the inclusion of 3 new derivatives of the plant, in the International nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, INCI - the largest list of ingredients used in cosmetics and personal care products ) , namely extracts from leaves, roots and hemp stalk.

In turn, specialists of the Ukrainian Technical Hemp Association , given the registration in Ukraine of therapeutic hemp varieties of a therapeutic nature, offer a solution similar to those initiated in Canada .

The main postulate of this kind of initiative is the fact that the “Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs of 1961” does not apply to cannabis plants cultivated exclusively for industrial purposes - technical hemp is clearly excluded from the scope of the Convention. On the other hand, in Ukraine at least one variety of technical hemp of a therapeutic orientation with extremely powerful therapeutic properties is registered. From the leaves and inflorescences of the Mriya variety abroad, test batches of pharmaceutical preparations with a huge therapeutic effect are made, and cosmetics containing the leaves and inflorescences of the above hemp variety not only restore the normal functionality of any problem skin, but also treat eczema, psoriasis, furunculosis , hydradenitis, vitiligo, herpes, other problems of acne, oily, aging, damaged or problem skin. 

According to the current legislation of Ukraine, cosmetic preparations do not fall under the competence of pharmaceutical and medical rules, therefore there are no obligations to ban the use of industrial hemp leaves and inflorescences for industrial purposes. In the world, the use of drug-free cannabinoids, terpenes, terpenoids, finols, flavonoids is the most effective method of using the plant, therefore the lack of a regulatory framework governing the use of technical hemp leaves and inflorescences in the formulation of cosmetic preparations indicates that Ukraine is still not keeping up with the global a trend when economically developed countries from China to the United States are reforming their laws in the field of modern hemp breeding precisely in order to neighing the growth of an extremely promising market for modern hemp breeding. That is why it is proposed to initiate processes aimed at allowing the use of leaves and inflorescences of technical hemp of therapeutic orientation as one of the ingredients of cosmetics obtained by a method that excludes extraction. 

Up-to-date information on the possibilities of using therapeutic technical hemp as an effective cosmetic ingredient can be obtained during the roundtable “ Use of cannabinoids in the treatment of severe / chronic diseases ” held within the framework of “ Hemp University ” held on December 17, 2019 .